Sourcewhere Drops: Hermès, Margiela’s Era is for the collectors and the curious. In collaboration with our trusted Partner and Hermès connoisseur, Mies Preowned, a selection of impeccable (and impeccably hard to find) Margiela-era Hermès—the icons crafted by the iconoclast himself during his celebrated twelve-year tenure at the French luxury house.

More recently, we captured these found classics on the streets of Paris. Long revered for their wearability, and true to their maker’s intent, their discreet design detail and meticulous construction continue to give space to the wearer; free to move, be interpreted, interchanged and worn as part of a modern wardrobe.

Mies Preowned Founder, Noora Vesterinen, has hand-picked and scoured for each runway original of this curation; the late-nineties and early-twenties heroes of Margiela’s studied time pioneering the timeless (vareuse V-neck, anti-pluie included). In celebration of the Drop on March 7, we explore the era further with founder, Noora Vesterinen and stylist, Suzanne Koller—a deep dive into the design detail and materials, archive references and the significance of sourcing the timeless pieces which have formed the Sourcewhere edit.

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"A selection of impeccable (and impeccably hard to find) Margiela-era Hermès—the icons crafted by the iconoclast himself during his celebrated twelve-year tenure at the French luxury house."

Over two decades ago, in April 1997, Belgian designer Martin Margiela was appointed as creative director of Hermès. What at first seemed an unfitting appointment; an avant-garde designer at the French heritage fashion house synonymous with sophistication and craftmanship, has become an era of reference still looked to today.

Ahead of his first collection at the house, and throughout his twelve-year tenure, Margiela diligently studied the Hermès woman; how she lived and how her clothing functioned in her day-to-day. Their behaviour and interaction with the garments were observed in detail—the gestures made with a coat, at times around a waist, or a hand slipped into pockets, the freedom of movement and how two pieces work with each other.

Speaking to Sourcewhere, Suzanne Koller, Stylist and Co-Founder of Self Service Magazine shared “Martin Margiela created and established quiet luxury and timelessness, already 25 years ago, during his time at Hermès. He allowed women then, and still today, to express their individuality.” True to his unwavering commitment to innovation and tailoring, Margiela designed transformable garments to adapt to the wearer’s life, not vice versa, with subtle details that can only be brought into modern use through clever construction. “Every single garment Margiela created for Hermès during these years are contemporary vintage to me.” says Koller.

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"True to his unwavering commitment to innovation and tailoring, Margiela designed transformable garments to adapt to the wearer’s life, not vice versa, with subtle details that can only be brought into modern use through clever construction."

It is a rare occasion to be able to present a curated edit of these original archive pieces, in brilliant condition, available to the Sourcewhere community. Spanning the 1999-2002 collections of his era, each garment can hold its own amongst a wardrobe of carefully chosen, wearable keepsakes, becoming a quiet accolade of finding the source inspiration of our modern-day uniforms. Select garments still hold handwritten notes from Margiela’s design team at the time of conception, and showcase the details that instilled his unique authority on, and confidence in, a classic—now, their utilitarian relevance remains true to a new audience.

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"He allowed women then, and still today, to express their individuality. Every single garment Margiela created for Hermès during these years are contemporary vintage to me."

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— Suzanne Koller, Stylist

So, what has been found? From the most timeless of V-neck shirts to inexplicably hard-to-find runway outerwear, each piece has been selected for their design significance and their ability to live effortlessly amongst your everyday pieces, old or new.

The SS1999 Linen Vareuse Shirt (sourced in Italy) is a fixture of this collection and the epitome of wearability. The iconic deep-V silhouette, in the most luxurious linen material, lends itself to layering in a summer cruise wardrobe, or for the colder months over cashmere—we styled this oversized fit with Margiela’s Hermès AW1998 turtleneck and The Row’s Corduroy Chandler Trousers.

The Varuese Shirt can also be found in a rich camel lambskin suede with signature six-hole buttons on the cuffs. Amid the logo-driven era of the 90s, Margiela understood that the Hermès woman didn’t want to carry visible logos. In a discreet but significant spin on the detail, he designed buttons using six holes instead of four, meaning stitching forms a subtle ‘H’.

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"Amid the logo-driven era of the 90s, Margiela understood that the Hermès woman didn’t want to carry visible logos."

A hero item, the SS1999 Long Lightweight Coat crafted in cotton crêpe, is an exceptionally rare find. This item is the exact piece as shown on the runway, complete with all notes and markings on the tags. “When it arrived and I saw the notes attached to it, I couldn’t believe my eyes,” comments Noora. Subtle slits on the sides allow hands to slip into hidden pockets, creating a natural posture for the body without adding extra visible details.

The AW1998 iconic Anti-Pluie Coat takes shape in a refined, sheer, water-repellent fabric that protects the wearer’s outfit with effortless sophistication. First presented on the runway worn with sneakers, the modernised piece practically elevates a day-to-day look while being able to be thrown in a bag when not needed, and now teams perfectly with an Alaïa mesh ballet flat.

Margiela’s Hermès traditional garments, such as a trench and the duffle coats, were constructed with detachable lapels, collars, hoods and buckles, allowing them to be transformed and adapted. Mies Preowned has sought out a piece showcasing this design, the AW2000 Transformable Wool and Cashmere Coat, worn by Lila with all of its fixtures attached.

The SS1999 Lambskin Leather Dress features hidden pockets and a belt-and-buckle in the back to adjust the shape to the wearer’s delight. In a greige colourway, we have paired this true collector's item with preowned The Row Bonnie canvas sneakers, proving it can also be found amongst your favourite pair of vintage Levi’s or tailored trousers. These icons are made to be worn, after all.

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"We have paired this true collector's item with preowned The Row Bonnie canvas sneakers, proving it can also be found amongst your favourite pair of vintage Levi’s or tailored trousers."

Many more finds await. The full exclusive edit “Hermès Margiela’s Era”, drops on Thursday, March 7th at 1pm GMT on the Sourcewhere app.